Meteora, orasul dintre stanci
May 11, 2013
Meteora, acest oras monahal reprezinta cel de-al doilea centru religios al Greciei, dupa Muntele Athos. Am gasit o ocazie minunata de a vizita Meteora taman inainte de sarbatoarea Pastelui, asa ca de 1 mai ne-am pornit spre taram elen, cu autoturismul propriu si mult avant de sarbatoare. Fara niciun fel de eveniment am strabatut rapid Bulgaria ( off…cine o fi pus Bulgaria intre noi si greci!! ) si autostrada Greciei (Egnatia Odos) pana la Salonic, apoi am urmat indicatorul spre Meteora. Drumul spre Meteora este extrem de pitoresc, prin valea Tesaliei, cu multe serpentine si meandre ce te fac sa astepti cu sufletul la gura privelistea faurita in minte sau vazuta prin poze ale Meteorei. Intr-un final relieful capata aspectele la care visezi, ridicandu-se de nicaieri stanci impresionante care aparent nu au ce cauta in mijlocul vaii.
Meteora – scurta descriere
Exista numeroase teorii care incearca sa explice fenomenul geologic ce a dus la ivirea stancilor fix in mijlocul unei campii, dar eu avand doi geografi acasa i-am intrebat direct ce cred despre aceasta minune a naturii. Mi s-a raspuns in termeni simpli ( ca sa inteleaga si mintea mea de ne-geograf) ca la baza formarii stancilor sta procesul de eroziune realizat de factori externi ( ploaie, vant) asupra depunerilor de nisip, noroi si pietre adunate aici de catre raul Pinios ce isi formase o delta de varsare. Aceste depuneri de gresii dure au capatat forme noi in milioane de ani de eroziune, iar multe dintre ele au inaltimi ce ating chiar 400 de metri ( of, s-au dus ideile suprarealiste de meteoriti, ozn-uri si alte minuni pe care le-am adus in discutie, mai in gluma, mai in serios pe drumul spre Meteora).La poalele Meteorei treci prin Kalambaka, un orasel cochet cu case albe si gradini pline de trandafiri, iasomie sau hortensii ( o minunatie, nu alta!). La nici 3 km de Kalambaka, urcand spre Meteora se afla o mica localitate, Kastraki unde ne-am gasit cazare ( despre cazare o sa va vorbesc mai tarziu , intr-un articol separat). Atat in Kalambaka
, cat si in Kastraki gasiti cazari la preturi decente, cu o priveliste minunata asupra manastirilor.
Un pic de istorie nu strica inainte de vizitarea manastirilor. Stancile, liantul spiritual dintre pamant si vazduh, au fost amintite ca sediu monahal in scrieri datand chiar din secolul al II-lea, dar abia in secolul XIV un calugar pe numele sau, Athanasios infiinteaza prima manastire ce se ridica pe cea mai mare stanca, numita Platilithos ( piatra lata) cu a ei 613 metri deasupra marii. Manastirea primeste numele de Meteoron (suspendat in aer) pentru ca ulterior intreg complexul de stanci sa se numeasca Meteora (prin urmare dezamagire maxima in grupul nostru, cuvantul meteora nu vine de la meteorit!! ).
A inflorit astfel o comunitate monahala organizata ulterior in 24 de manastiri printre vulturi, fiecare extrem de bine pusa la punct, cu bucatarii, pivnite, chilii, biserici. Multe dintre ele au fost renovate de-a lungul timpului, altele insa isi arata doar ruinele ( Manastirea Sfantul Spirit, Manastirea Sf Demetrios, Manastirea Sf Nicolaos Badova..etc). Declinul incepe din secolul XVII sub invazii repetate de catre turci iar cele doua razboaie mondiale lasa si ele urme. Raman insa in picioare 6 manastiri extrem de bine intretinute, intrate sub protectia Unesco si care se reunesc sub elogiul de “ pamant sfant”.
Intreaga galerie de imagini o gasiti aici: Meteora Poze
Daca va asteptati sa gasiti franghii drept mod de ascensiune in manastiri, veti fi dezamagiti. Crestinii veniti din toate colturile lumii intr-un numar covarsitor au dus cumva la modernizarea acestor manastiri , asa ca in locul franghiilor veti gasi podete si poduri zdravene, scari sapate in stanca. Fiecare manastire are sistemul propriu de aprovizionare care functioneaza pe scripeti, franghiile fiind inlocuite de cabluri masive.
Va sugerez sa incepeti turul de forta la orele diminetii. Nu stiu cum este vara, in plin sezon, dar noi am reusit sa vizitam aproape toate manastirile fara a sta la cozi interminabile, chiar daca autocarele pline de turisti veneau in nestire. O tinuta decenta este recomandata, iar doamnele si domnisoarele sunt rugate sa se infasoare in fuste lungi si cam posomorate ( ma rog, clar nu erau pe gustul meu ).
Marele Meteoron
Dintre cele 6 manastiri care se viziteaza, Marele Meteoron este probabil cea mai impresionanta ca organizare, dimensiuni si priveliste. A fost construita in jurul anului 1340, iar adaugiri s-au adus ulterior mai ales de catre tarul sarb Simeon Uros care s-a si calugarit aici. Turnul impresionant care domina manastirea a fost contruit la 1520 si e imposibil sa nu il remarci, mai ales ca in drumul spre manastire eram cu privirile atintite in sus la cate trepte mai urmau de urcat. Daca nu ai fi manat de la spate de alte zeci de turisti care vor sa urce si ei, zau ca ti-ai lua mult mai multe pauze de tras aer in peipt si de promisiuni repetate ca de maine ma apuc de aerobic.
Aici exista un muzeu laic ce adaposteste comori ale ortodoxismului elen (personal am fost impresionata de manuscrise, multe dintre ele extrem de vechi – cel mai vechi dateaza de la 860), osuarul, pivnita unde am ramas nauca cu ochii la cel mai mare butoi pe care l-am vazut vreodata, biserica, bucataria si locul de luat masa, un spital care insa nu se viziteaza, chilii si bineinteles curti interioare extrem de odihnitoare. La umbra copacilor te poti aseza in voie si poti admira privelistea ce ti se deschide in fata ochilor, ramanand mut de admiratie in incercarea omului de a supune natura la limita imposibilului.
Intreaga galerie de imagini o gasiti aici: Meteora Poze
Manastirea Varlaam
Din balcoanele de la Marele Meteoron se poate observa a doua manastire ca dimensiuni,Manastirea Varlaam ce poarta numele celui care a infiintat-o la 1350. Foarte multe nu va pot povesti pentru ca joia , ziua in care am pornit la vizitat, manastire este inchisa.
Manastirea Sfintei Treimi
Manastirea care m-a impresionat cel mai mult ca acces este Manastirea Sfintei Treimi. Din pacate am gasit-o si pe aceasta inchisa, dar cu toate astea tot ne-am aventurat pana la usa zavorata. Drumul pietruit de acces initial coboara pentru ca apoi sa urce abrupt continut de o scara in piatra si chiar un culoar ingust prin stanca. Privelistea este covarsitoare si merita tot efortul fizic depus pana la usile manastirii, chiar inchise fiind. Cele 140 de trepte sapate in stanca o fac mai putin vizitata, dar credeti-ma ca merita din plin.
Sfantul Stefan
Una din manastirile de maici din complexul de 6 manastiri este cea care poarta hramul Sfantului Stefan si a inceput sa adaposteasca maicute abia din anul 1961. Cladirea este eleganta si armonioasa, cu o priveliste minunata asupra orasului Kalambaka. Gradinile interioare sunt extrem de cochete si te poti odihni in voie pe una din bancutele din gradina.
Manastirea Sf Nicolae Anapafsas
Si dupa atatea minunatii vizitate, urcusul spre Manastirea Sf Nicolae Anapafsas m-a epuizat complet. incat ajunsa in interior nu am putut decat sa ies in curte si sa trag adanc aer in piept. Aici am vazut un sistem extrem de interesant de transport marfuri, asemuitor unui lift- scripete, a carui cabluri verticale sunt pe latura estica a manastirii si pe care mi l-as fi dorit cu ardoare functional.
Manastirea Roussanou sau Sfanta Barbara
O singura manastire se mai poate vizita, Roussanu sau Sfanta Barbara. Este prima manastire din circuitul celor 6 cum incepi urcusul spre stanci. Multe detalii nu am sa va dau referitor la ea pentru ca nu am vizitat-o. Am citit insa ca este o constructie pe 4 etaje, cu o superba gradina interioara si ca ar fi manastire de maici.
Intreaga galerie de imagini o gasiti aici: Meteora Poze
Prin urmare se pare ca exista doua manastiri de maici din cele 6 existente, aceasta si manastirea Sf antul Stefan ( toate informatiile adunate inainte de vizitarea Meteorei imi indicau existenta unei singure manastiri de maici).
Meteora – program vizitare si pret intrare
Si acum, va dau cateva date referitor la programul de vizitare si taxa de intrare. Pentru fiecare manastire se percepe o taxa de 3 euro iar programul este urmatorul:Manastirea Marele Meteoron : zilnic ( inchis Marti): 9.00-17.00
Manastirea Sf Varlaam : zilnic ( inchis joi): 9.00- 16.00
Manastirea Sfintei Treimi : zilnic ( inchis joi) 9.00-17.00
Manstirea Sf Stefan: zilnic ( inhis luni) : 9.00-13.30 si 15.20-17.30
Manastirea Roussanou: zilnic 9.00-18.00
Manastirea Sf Nicolas Anapafsas zilnic ( inchis vineri): 9.00-15.30
Atentie, acesta este doar programul pe timpul verii. Daca doriti sa vizitati manastirile pe timp de iarna, programul se scurteaza cu o ora si se adauga dupa caz inca o zi fara vizite!
Intreaga galerie de imagini o gasiti aici: Meteora Poze
Cam atat despre Meteora, daca aveti completari nu ezitati ...
By Andrei Pop
The stone forest of Meteora is one of the most awe-inspiring places on Earth. The monasteries perched atop these inaccessible rock peaks are amongst the most religiously significant places in the world, and have been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Barry explores this amazing location and learns of a saint after his own heart. He then meets with a Monk who is not only a cook but a published author!
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Încărcat la 23.02.2011
Nikos Deja Vu - Meteora in Thessaly, Greece (Slideshow © 2011) UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Metéora (Greek: Μετέωρα, "suspended rocks", "suspended in the air" or "in the heavens above") is one of the largest and most important complexes of Eastern Orthodox monasteries in Greece, second only to Mount Athos.
The six monasteries are built on natural sandstone rock pillars, at the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly near the Pineios river and Pindus Mountains, in central Greece. The nearest town is Kalambaka.
In northwestern Thessaly there rears up out of the plain of the Peneios (Pinios) a group of conglomerate rock formations up to 300m/985ft high which have been weathered by erosion into a variety of bizarre forms. Vertical rock faces, sharply pointed pinnacles and massive crags tower up above Kalambaka and the village of Kastraki, separated by deeply slashed defiles. Perched on these rocks are the monasteries of Meteora, which take their name from their situation - ta meteora monastiria, the monasteries hanging in the air.
Originally accessible only by bridle tracks, ladders and windlasses, the monasteries have now been brought within the reach of visitors by the construction of modern roads and flights of steps and by signposting;
but it should not be forgotten that these are places of peace and prayer and meditation, and visitors should conduct themselves accordingly.
To get the most out of a visit to this awe-inspiring landscape visitors should avoid merely driving quickly from one sight to the next. The best plan is to allow time to explore the area on foot and to see some of the remoter monasteries, now abandoned, as well as those that are shown to tourists.
In the ninth century the first hermits settled in caves beneath the rocks of Meteora, and a church of the Panayia was built at Doupiani. The place became known as "stous Ayious" ("at the saints' place"), which was corrupted into Stagoi. In 1340 Thessaly came under Serbian control, and Simeon, an uncle of the young king Stephen Uros V, was crowned as king of the Serbs and Greeks at Trikala. During this troubled period the hermits sought safety and tranquillity on the summits of the rocks. Then monasteries were built, beginning with the Great Meteoron, founded by Athanasios the Meteorite between 1356 and 1372 on the Broad Rock (Platys Lithos) and enlarged from 1388 onwards by his disciple and successor Joasaph, a son of King Simeon. In the heyday of Meteora there were 24 monasteries; but decline set in during the 16th century, and only six monasteries are now still occupied. Together with the monasteries of Athos, they make an important contribution to our knowledge of the post-Byzantine painting of the 16th century.
Hobbies & Activities category: Cave; Hiking opportunity; Christian sites; Scenic site or route; UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Nikos Deja Vu
http://n1k0s.multiply.com
http://n1999k.blogspot.com
The Metéora (Greek: Μετέωρα, "suspended rocks", "suspended in the air" or "in the heavens above") is one of the largest and most important complexes of Eastern Orthodox monasteries in Greece, second only to Mount Athos.
The six monasteries are built on natural sandstone rock pillars, at the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly near the Pineios river and Pindus Mountains, in central Greece. The nearest town is Kalambaka.
In northwestern Thessaly there rears up out of the plain of the Peneios (Pinios) a group of conglomerate rock formations up to 300m/985ft high which have been weathered by erosion into a variety of bizarre forms. Vertical rock faces, sharply pointed pinnacles and massive crags tower up above Kalambaka and the village of Kastraki, separated by deeply slashed defiles. Perched on these rocks are the monasteries of Meteora, which take their name from their situation - ta meteora monastiria, the monasteries hanging in the air.
Originally accessible only by bridle tracks, ladders and windlasses, the monasteries have now been brought within the reach of visitors by the construction of modern roads and flights of steps and by signposting;
but it should not be forgotten that these are places of peace and prayer and meditation, and visitors should conduct themselves accordingly.
To get the most out of a visit to this awe-inspiring landscape visitors should avoid merely driving quickly from one sight to the next. The best plan is to allow time to explore the area on foot and to see some of the remoter monasteries, now abandoned, as well as those that are shown to tourists.
In the ninth century the first hermits settled in caves beneath the rocks of Meteora, and a church of the Panayia was built at Doupiani. The place became known as "stous Ayious" ("at the saints' place"), which was corrupted into Stagoi. In 1340 Thessaly came under Serbian control, and Simeon, an uncle of the young king Stephen Uros V, was crowned as king of the Serbs and Greeks at Trikala. During this troubled period the hermits sought safety and tranquillity on the summits of the rocks. Then monasteries were built, beginning with the Great Meteoron, founded by Athanasios the Meteorite between 1356 and 1372 on the Broad Rock (Platys Lithos) and enlarged from 1388 onwards by his disciple and successor Joasaph, a son of King Simeon. In the heyday of Meteora there were 24 monasteries; but decline set in during the 16th century, and only six monasteries are now still occupied. Together with the monasteries of Athos, they make an important contribution to our knowledge of the post-Byzantine painting of the 16th century.
Hobbies & Activities category: Cave; Hiking opportunity; Christian sites; Scenic site or route; UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Nikos Deja Vu
http://n1k0s.multiply.com
http://n1999k.blogspot.com
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